Kathmandu

Nepal is an interesting place. We've been unable to get much outside the capital, as we're only really here to renew our visa, but what we've seen we like a lot.

Kathmandu


On first impression Nepal is maybe similar to India. In other ways it reminds of China. But in a lot of ways it's just quite different. In no particular order, here's what I've noticed.

The food seems to be mostly the same as India - not that we've eaten much of it, as after having an enforced indian diet for so long, we're pigging on italian, japanese, tibetan, steak & burger restaurants, bacon, sausages and all the other things the capital city offers. They're definitely more keen on meat up here.

Kathmandu has an amazing central square with all sorts of Hindu and Buddhist temples - most are in a pagoda style. Buddhism is much more important here than in India - there's stupas dotted around the city, and lots of monastries. The city is surrounded by mountains, but you can't see any of the more distant snow-covered peaks.

A fair part of the city seems to still be traditional houses - brick built, often with a shop on the bottom floor. It's a pleasure to wander the streets - they're narrow and crowded, and there's all kinds of markets, street-side shrines & shops. They're very keen on wood-carving here - all the temples and palaces, and many of the houses, are covered in intricate carving - quite a bit of it risque.

It's interesting to people-watch - Nepalis come in all shapes and sizes. Some people look Indian, others more like Thai. There's very short Sherpas, and tall Tibetans. The people are very polite, friendly, and quite chatty too. Being British seems to score extra points here.

The tourists here are a more active bunch than where we've been so far in India - everyone is planning to go trekking or scale a mountain it seems. There's lots of shops selling fake 'North Face' clothes and equipment to kit them out. I feel quite a fraud just coming here for my visa.

We went to the mountaineers bar - 'Rum Doodle'. If you've climbed Everest, you can eat there free for life. There's signatures of Tensing, Hilary and a load of other mountaineers at the bar, while the walls are covered with mementos of other expeditions.

Away from the tourists, Nepal is visibly poorer than India, and life seems to be tougher. There's power cuts for 8 hours each day (it's called 'Load Shedding') - there's a weekly schedule. At the moment people have to queue for hours for petrol and cooking kerosene too, as there's shortages caused by blockades.

Although it's warm in the sunshine, it's flipping cold at night - we've discovered the joys of extra blankets and hot water bottles.


Visas

I'm in Kathmandu, Nepal. I've been here for a week while we apply for new Indian visas - our current 6-month visas will soon expire. Getting a new visa is a lengthy process, involving 3 visits to the embassy, telexes, and lots of queuing.

We got the new visas today, so we're pleased and relieved. We're heading back to India on Friday - first Delhi, then Dehradun, where we'll be living for the next 3 months.

Carrie is planning to start work next Monday - she doesn't hang around. I'll be back 'at work' too - I've got a lot of email to catch up with.



Catching Up..

I've just uploaded sets of photos of the last stages of our trip.

From Varanasi we caught an overnight train and then a bumpy local bus to Khajuraho. This is a small village not far from the middle of nowhere, but it has the most amazing collection of old temples - which are covered in carving. They're world famous because some of the carving is quite naughty - but this maybe distracts from the temples themselves, which are beautiful.

Khajuraho


Those of a sensitive nature (e.g. Carrie's Mum) probably shouldn't look at these pictures


We then went moved on to Orchha. Orchha was the capital of one of the princely states of pre-independance India. It's now a tiny place with two huge abandoned palaces, an enormous cathedral of a temple, and lots of cenotaphs, towers, walls and other monuments. We stayed in one wing of the palaces that has been renovated as a hotel. The rest is now only home to monkeys and bats. Indian monuments aren't covered in safety bars and 'no entry' signs - if you fall off, that's your problem. It was brilliant to roam around, clamber up, and try to imagine what it once would have been like - you just need to keep an eye out for sudden drops. The views of the surrounding countryside are stunning too.

Orchha


Next was Gwalior. There's not so much to see here, but was a convenient step on the way to Agra. There's another ruined fort, some nice clifftop temples, and an over-the-top modern maharaja's palace.

Gwalior


Finally we got to Agra, and saw the Taj Mahal. It's such a well known image, a cliche, that it was really odd actually visiting it. Still, it is a jaw-droppingly gorgeous building.

Agro in Agra



Smells, Bells, Processions & Pyres

Varanasi is the ancient holy city on the Ganges. It's also incredibly filthy and polluted - Carrie got ill, and I developed a cough (we've both recovered now).


We saw a few pilgrims, but it wasn't as busy as we'd expected. The river at the moment is particularly low, exposing muddy banks, and it's quite nippy - maybe this keeps pilgrims away?


While we were there the Maharishi's ashes were scattered into the Ganges - that day the Ghats were busier, as there were a lot of his American and Japanese followers attending. White sadhu-like robes don't look very good on europeans - they look pale and ill. I saw some of them taking to the waters. Now, if you fall in Bristol harbour, they pump your stomach...


All that aside, this is a fascinating place - all you expect - and beautiful, in the right light.

Varanasi






Tribes in Orissa

We've been in the highlands of Orissa, visiting tribal communities and markets. People here are far from the indian mainstream, and have their own quite different languages, beliefs, customs and costume.

We took a train up from the coast - it climbed through mountains onto the inland plateau. The landscape up here is a different kind of India from what we've seen before too - wide plains and steep river valleys. Somehow it seems more like Africa.

The people we met here were very warm and friendly, and the markets were great fun. Some of the stall holders were puzzled why we had 'empty noses'. Carrie bought a sari in the market, and the villagers helped her to put it on - which caused much amusement.

We had a wonderful time, and took some great photos. However, there's lots more that we didn't take photos of - to do so felt too intrusive.

Tribal Orissa



Our guide, Ambar, deserves a mention. He really made our trip enjoyable, and it was clear he has a real understanding and rapport with the people he took us to visit. I'd happily recommend him to anyone else - here's his details:


Ambar Kumar Patnaik

+919437340616

ambar_patnaik@yahoo.com

Jeypore, Orissa

Konark Sun Temple

While we were staying in Puri, we took a tuktuk along the coast to see the Konark Sun Temple. This is an amazing structure - absolutely huge, especially considering that no arches are used in it's construction.

Sadly, it was collapsing under it's own weight - so soon after the British rediscovered it and dug it out of the sand dunes, they filled it with rubble to keep it up. Still, the outside is magnificent, and it's all covered with really fine carving - a lot of it quite, erm, racy.

Konark

Chilika Lake

We took a boat trip around Chilika Lake - a huge brackish lagoon on the coast. There's freshwater dolphins in the lagoon - and we were lucky enough to see 4 or 5 of them. They're odd looking little chaps - they've not got the pointed snout of typical dolphins, and are a lot smaller.


I'm glad we took a fishing boat, and didn't take the ferry:


IMG_1038.jpg

Birthday Fireworks.

It was my birthday at the end of January, and Carrie pushed the boat out, trekked into the local town, and spent all of £25 on some amazingly large fireworks. We let them off on the beach - large mortars with huge bangs and big starbursts. Quite terrifying really - especially as we were quite merry on mulled wine at the time. Great fun.

From Album


I didn't manage to get any photos of the explosions - we were too busy running out the way - but the packaging is interesting - 'intel inside' sparklers and 'iPod' starbursts.

Indian Fireworks


It's Carrie's birthday mid-March - dunno what I'm going to do in return.

Rajahstan Photos.

We've finally sorted through the photos from our christmas trip to Rajahstan. The best are online here:

Christmas in Rajahstan

Yum!

I think my expression says it all...

IMG_1057.jpg


it's the mother of all dosas.

Puri

We're in Puri, Orissa.

IMG_1049.jpg

It's quite a bit cooler that what we'd become used to in Goa - but the people are friendly. Puri is a complex place - 50% pilgrimage site (home of the original Juggernaut), 50% Blackpool for holidaymakers from Calcutta, and a smattering of european travellers.

Sadly, the Jagganath temple is closed to non-Hindus - so we could only get glimpses from outside.

IMG_1053.jpg

The beach is nothing special - but there's a large promenade, and lots of holidaymakers taking the air. There's camels and horses giving rides, a very wobbly big-wheel, all sorts of deep-fried things to eat, and trinkets to buy.

IMG_1055.jpg

I have no idea why this car is decorated.

IMG_1048.jpg
IMG_1047.jpg